Charlotte – Staying at the historic Dunhill Hotel is always a special treat. Their location is perfect for exploring downtown Charlotte, and the experience from lobby, to The Asbury (their restaurant), to their rooms, wraps you in a congenial welcome.
Not especially “Southern”, but for one of my favorite cocktails – Dark & Stormy – I relied on The Dunhill’s bartender to jazz it up with additional bitters of his choice. Not sure if it was house Mixologist Myke Head or bartender Justin working this night, but they both mix up excellent drinks!
Deviled Eggs ($6) are at the Chef’s whim, changing daily. I thought I was going to have a little “snack” as an appetizer, but these puppies were filled with a deliciously seasoned blend to just about the tipping point and topped with pickled (with ginger added) watermelon rind. I’m literally shaking my head as I write this, remembering how good (and filling) they were.
Soup of the Day (Market Price) is also at the Chef’s whim. The risk of too much food did not stop me from ordering this Carrot and Ginger Bisque topped with fresh greens and pickled apricots. Loved both the texture and flavor of the bisque, but did mention to my server that the apricots were a little too tart for my taste. That didn’t stop me from finishing every bit of the soup!
On the menu is a deceptively simple Krenz Beef Blackboard (Market Price). It’s the beef special of the day, courtesy of Krenz Ranch, a sustainable boutique beef operation in New Salem, NC owned by the family of Executive Chef Matthew Krenz. They supply all beef for The Asbury.
Filet Mignon served with crispy spiced potatoes and Rouille was on the Board. Regular readers know that’s one of my go-to’s. So predictable! Can’t remember if it was a 6oz or 8oz portion, but I sighed (just a little). My preferred filet size is right about 3oz. Chef de Cuisine Mike Long was completely awesome when he heard that, saying he had a smaller piece in the kitchen he’d be happy to cook for me. Sending hugs to Chef Mike!
Yours is going to look different of course, but this was just perfect for me! Seared nicely and full of flavor. I’d definitely recommend this entree!
So yes, I was pretty full, but there’s always room for dessert, right? Of the various options, that all sounded wonderful by the way, I chose a Peach Upside Down Cake ($8) made with Bourbon Caramel, fresh peaches, and oatmeal streusel. So good! I’m all about personal portion control, but I could have eaten three of these things!
Good thing I didn’t because Chef Mike sent out TWO more desserts for me to taste!
First up was this beautifully presented and completely delicious Kiselo Namelaka ($8) with mango gelee, Huacatay sorbet, and milk crumb (Google “milk crumbs” for inspiration). Try to get a little of every component in each bite for the best effect.
Last, but not least – Plum Sorbet ($6) made with NC plums. After swiping a good-sized taste off the top (with a clean spoon), I gave it to the couple at the next table I’d been chatting with all evening. We all loved this fresh, light, sweet finish to a meal. So flavorful!
Considered one of the top fine dining restaurants in Charlotte, The Asbury really is a gem. It’s not just the food – which is truly wonderful – it’s also Chef Krenz and the team that make this spot so special. Go when you can.
Epicurean Notes:
Brunch is served on Saturdays and Sundays from 9 AM to 3 PM, with service from the regular menu continuing until 10 PM both evenings.
The Asbury has a special collaboration with Sozo Gallery to feature regional artists’ works. The work currently on the walls is beautiful.
I was a guest of The Dunhill Hotel for lodging and The Asbury for this meal, but know that all comments are honest.
Asheville – William Dissen will help the culinary kick off the new Sunday Suppers at James Beard House, 167 West 12th Street in New York City, on Sunday, July 22. This oceanic family-style feast will highlight the delicious potential of seasonal, sustainable seafood from chef Kerry Heffernan of Grand Banks and Island Oyster (New York, New York), Pilot (Brooklyn, New York), and Seaworthy (New Orleans, Louisiana); chef Hari Pulapaka of Cress Restaurant, (DeLand, Florida); and chef Dissen, whose skills in the kitchen are only surpassed by their passion and commitment to reeling in a more sustainable catch for diners everywhere. The Seafood Supper starts at 6 p.m. and costs $95 for members and $125 for the public. For reservations and more information, call (212) 627-2308 Monday through Friday from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. or visit https://www.jamesbeard.org/events.
About William Dissen:
William Dissen is the executive chef and owner of The Market Place restaurant in Asheville, NC, Billy D’s Fried Chicken in Asheboro, NC, and Haymaker in Charlotte, NC. He is a graduate of West Virginia University and the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, where he graduated with honors. In addition, he has a master’s degree in hospitality, restaurant and tourism management from the University of South Carolina. The chef is known for his firm commitment to sustainable practices and utilizing local ingredients, which were the reasons he was chosen as a member of the U.S. Department of State’s American Chef Corps and has spoken to Congress on sustainable food and food policy issues for national outreach events every year from 2013 to 2017. Chef Dissen also demonstrates his commitment to seafood sustainability as a restaurant partner and member of the Blue Ribbon Task Force for the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch.
Hendersonville – Guest post by Martha Smith. Two friends and I went to Harvey’s at The Henderson Inn for an early supper before going to Flat Rock Playhouse. On Thursday, Friday, and Saturday from 5 – 9pm, Harvey’s has a small plate menu that is also meant to be shared with friends. Having been to Brunch on Sunday we thought it would be fun to do dinner.
The special for the evening was an Asparagus Soup which two of us ordered. It was delicious.
Asparagus Soup
Other items ordered were Harvey’s Salad wrapped in cucumber with a fried banana leaf to finish it off ($6).
Harvey’s Salad wrapped in cucumber with a fried banana leaf
Next was Ahi Tuna Tataki ($8),
Ahi Tuna Tataki
and Wild Mushroom and Truffle Empanadas with cauliflower sauce ($10).
Wild Mushroom and Truffle Empanadas with cauliflower sauce
Two of us couldn’t wait to order the Creme Brulee for dessert. Yum!! All were delicious.
It would be fun to have a group and each person order different things. Plates are brought out as they are prepared and not all at one time.
Going at 5pm allowed us plenty of time to get to the playhouse on time.
Asheville – Antonio O. “Tony” Fraga, Sr., President and founder of FIRC Group, along with his son, Alexander W. Fraga FIRC Group Vice President, and extended family hosted the Grand Opening event for their newest property in Asheville, the Cambria Hotel Asheville (http://www.cambriadowntownasheville.com/) two weeks ago.
A note about Tony Fraga; I was impressed with his sincerity when he spoke to all gathered for the Grand Opening, he stressed legacy and the importance, for him personally, of “leaving the world better than you found it”. He also talked about heritage and leaving something for future generations.
The FIRC team put together a lively, Cuban-influenced, oh-so-Asheville celebration I found to be completely refreshing! Three well known buskers were on hand, entertaining folks in the lobby, Silver Drummer Girl, Abby the Spoon Lady & Chris Rodrigues, as well as, The Buskits (amazingly talented 9 & 11 year old brothers), in the 4th floor restaurant and rooftop bar, Hemingway’s Cuba.
THE GRAND OPENING
I was fortunate enough to spend the night as the Fraga’s guest. This meant I could give the room and amenities the once over with a critical eye.
Conclusion? The Cambria features architectural design that impacts perception and emotion in a most positive way. For instance, the hotel rooms feel open and welcoming, even though they’re not especially large, due to angled walls, frosted bathroom glass doors and walls, and special touches like a table-top welcome tableau of local chocolate and complimentary bottled water.
Special touches abound. On check-in, you are offered a glass of champagne. On check-out, you are presented with a gift jar of local honey. Asheville is “Bee City” after all. Bedside lights are well placed and switches are easily reached. There are more than enough outlets and USB charge locations in the rooms and the mirror in the bathroom features Bluetooth speakers. Just touch the red button on the mirror and pair your device to listen to your favorite playlists!
In addition to standard rooms, there are 1 and 2 bedroom view suites with sitting/living areas and balconies furnished with very nice seating. The one we gathered in before the ribbon cutting had a great view of the 4th floor rooftop bar as well as long range views of the city and surrounding mountains.
THE ROOM & VIEW
Hemingway’s Cuba, overseen by Chef Duane Fernandas, has overcome initial concerns of locals regarding menu items and pricing nicely. Definitely go for a meal and/or drinks. A small group of us had “dinner” – really, we shared a variety of dishes delivered to our table and described in detail by Chef Duane. Look through the gallery below for descriptions of each dish.
I really can’t say enough about the rooftop bar. You MUST not miss it. There are fire rings with cozy, comfortable seating, umbrellas for especially warm days, and fabulous lighting at night. It’s modern, sleek, and welcoming without “attitude”. A comfortable place to hang out with friends over drinks and appetizers.
THE FOOD AT HEMINGWAY’S CUBA
Epicurean Notes:
Not in the Hemingway’s Cuba gallery, but Tres Leches Cake, a delicious dessert I’d highly recommend!
Cambria is a higher end property of Choice Hotels
This Cambria has many custom features and details. It’s not a typical Cambria Hotel.
Belmont, NC – Wine lovers and foodies from Belmont and the surrounding Charlotte area will be delighted with the fresh new tapas and wine by the glass offerings launching on Friday at Luna Hombre (http://www.lunahombrebelmont.com/).
Christina Cicci, Owner/Proprietor, purchased the establishment in February. She and her team have been making small enhancements to the menu and wine selection over the past few months.
“This is just a start to the amazing upgrades that we’ll be making. We’ve listened to our customer feedback and we’re bringing them a wine and tapas menu that will speak to them”, Cicci said.
Manager, Alisa Phifer, designed the new menu by looking at familiar, homey favorites and adding summer flavors, such as Heirloom tomatoes, fresh watermelon, and corn on the cob.
STREET CORN summer cobs, charred, ancho and lime butter 8
FARM FRESH VEGGIE chef selected and prepared market price*
Cicci shared, “We’ve kept a few of our most popular items and just made small tweaks, such as our house Queso Pimento and Luna Sliders and Patatas and have added some vegetarian options. I’m super excited about the shareability of the new menu. That’s what we’re all about, bringing people together and sharing. We’re a place to let your hair down, relax and share conversation, wine, beer and food.”
Luna Hombre – located in the historic Belmont Drug building on Main St. in downtown Belmont. The 2,000 square foot space the historical integrity in tact with exposed brick walls, a welcoming bar with white marble bar top, eclectic artwork that creates a relaxing, unpretentious ambiance.
Luna Hombre offers over 20 wine selections by the glass and over 42 options of bottle and can craft beers, 6 rotating local draft beer on tap, and a wide selection of wine bottles to share and enjoy there or to take home.
Durham – Sean Umstead announced today that he will open Kingfisher (https://www.kingfisherdurham.com/) in downtown Durham with his wife and business partner, Michelle Vanderwalker in late 2018. Kingfisher – an intimate cocktail bar, located next to The Durham Hotel at 321 East Chapel Hill Street – will highlight fresh and skillfully preserved fruits and produce from North Carolina farms in craft cocktails and small plates. The basement space will reflect the couple’s honed sensibility and Vanderwalker’s artistic background.
Umstead, one of the area’s respected bar experts, recently received high praise from James Beard Foundation award-winning chef Ashley Christensen who said, “…[St. Roch] packs a secret weapon: general manager Sean Umstead is making some of the most creative cocktails in the area.” At St. Roch Fine Oysters & Bar in Raleigh, Umstead is responsible for all aspects of service and bar. His experience in the food and beverage industry also includes The Umstead Hotel & Spa and as beverage manager at Counting House inside the 21c Museum Hotel in Durham. Umstead’s reputation extends beyond the Triangle as well; he won the regional Copper & Kings’ “Mixt8pe Cocktail Competition” with his Carrot & Fennel Sazerac – and he’ll compete for the national title in Louisville, Kentucky this July.
Kingfisher’s interior design will be led by Vanderwalker of Vanderwalker Design, who works as an artist specializing in handmade ceramics. The cozy, warmly lit interior will feature Vanderwalker’s ceramic dishes exclusively; her craftsmanship and creativity will be evident throughout, including on the custom tiled bar. Kingfisher’s convivial bar, relaxed lounge seating and semi-private booths will provide a unique space for any type of evening. Vanderwalker is also tapping into the talents of other North Carolina makers for signature items such as handcrafted leather menu covers by Margaret Hennessey.
Umstead will serve craft cocktails celebrating the seasonal nature of North Carolina’s harvest. Kingfisher will celebrate NC produce year-round: with in-season stars as well as preserved specialties. Umstead’s work with North Carolina strawberries is already underway, thanks to 75 pounds purchased this spring from Lil’ Farm. These strawberries, preserved in various ways, will find their way into cocktails throughout the year. This preparedness helps Umstead offer drinks like a local strawberry daiquiri year-round, whether with strawberry vinegar in the fall or strawberry preserves in the winter. Kingfisher will also offer a selection of small plates and a sophisticated wine and beer list.
Kingfisher is named after the unique birds who live along the banks of North Carolina’s rivers, including the nearby Eno River. Like its namesake, Kingfisher aims to be a unique, fascinating presence in Durham. Kingfisher is slated to open in 2018.
Visit www.KingfisherDurham.com to sign up for updates; Follow Kingfisher on Instagram, Facebook and Twitter @kingfisherdurm.
Asheville – Visiting or working in Asheville, when you need a break there’s a sweet little spot tucked away on a corner in the heart of downtown. You’ll find it one block off Biltmore Ave. at the intersection of S Lexington Ave and Aston St, behind the Aloft Hotel.
It’s Rustic Grape Wine Bar (https://www.rusticgrapeavl.com/). It’s trendy, leans toward industrial, with a sprinkling of soft touch to cozy it up.
Nicely arranged fresh flowers are always part of the decor.
There’s high and low seating, including a little nook area set back between the wall of wine and the wall of windows. It’s a great place for groups to gather for conversation. Or on Mondays for the weekly board game night and $2 off all glasses of wine. There are specials on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays, also.
A charming patio is out front, facing Aston St. There’s not much of a view, but there’s some people watching and not much traffic.
At night, light spilling onto the patio and sidewalk gives the corner a glowing, warm look.
I was walking down Aston St when the thought of a nice cool glass of wine felt decidedly appropriate. It was warm outside, but not too warm for patio sitting.
Note to singles – men or women – you will not feel uncomfortable in the least enjoying a drink by yourself, whether you’re waiting for friends or flying solo.
(North) Asheville – Bone & Broth (http://boneandbrothasheville.com/) is the kind of place you’d expect to find in an out of the way Boston neighborhood. A place the locals go for a drink or easy meal. Easy, but good.
The place was about two thirds full when we got there at 7pm this past Saturday. They were still busy when we left at 8:15pm or so.
Dark wood-paneled and warm, the bar is pretty prominent. We each chose a wine we thought we’d like, not based on any particular pairing. He – a 2016 Freelander Cabernet Sauvignon (Freelander District – Central CA Valley) ($8) and Me – a 2015 Peirano Zinfandel (Lodi) ($9). I am now going to search out that Peirano Zin. Just loved it!
While we waited for our entrees, we shared an order of Bourbon Caramelized Onion Dip ($8) with fresh house-made potato chips. The chips were fresh and crispy and that dip was definitely addictive. So good!
Didn’t get a picture of the Hubs’ 6oz Dry-Aged Bavette ($19). On the menu as “a cut where flank meets sirloin”, it’s served with two sides and choice of sauce: Demi, Tallow Butter, Au Poivre, or B&B Steak Sauce. Ordered medium-rare, it’s tender. We agreed cooked longer than that and you might end up with a slightly tough steak.
For me, the B&B Cheeseburger ($11). It was disappointing that they only offered American Cheese. I’d have preferred Cheddar. It’s topped with Dijonaise, lettuce, tomato, onion, and Dill pickles in addition to the cheese. I paid $1 extra to sub asparagus as my one side instead of fries. Especially since we’d already had some chips.
I was very happy with this burger, even with the American on top. It arrived on a bun firm enough to hold it all together in my hands and cooked as ordered. The asparagus was flavorful and still al dente, the way I like it.
Bone & Broth should be sticking around for a while if they continue the excellent service and good menu choices. They offer steaks, chops, a few burgers, a few pasta dishes, and specialties that include quail, roast and fried chicken, shrimp, and salmon. See their menu here.
Pricing, in my opinion, is that most of the menu is approachable, but one or two of their items are high (8oz Dry-Aged – an expensive process, but still – Filet Mignon $45).
Definitely go for a meal, or just pop in for drinks if you want to check it out first.
Pigeon Forge, TN – Yes, Dollywood has an amazing array of rides, including a train pulled by a historic steam engine used to move troops in Alaska during WWII and the world’s fastest wooden roller coaster.
The tour was culinary focused, but there are non-culinary things you might like to know also. I left with hundreds of photos and a very full belly!
FOOD & DRINK
The food is definitely “Southern” in the best down-home way, with specials changing randomly or according to what festival is going on. It’s authentic and affordable. My visit happened to be during the Barbecue & Bluegrass Festival, so . . . there was grilling going on: Ribs, Pulled Pork, Sausage, ears of corn, and even watermelon! Beyond grilling, there were creative takes on a couple standards: Crossroads Funnel Cakes topped with chicken, mandarin orange sauce and powdered sugar. And Country Cookers – Kettle Korn made in various colors and flavors.
This brings me to an interesting point about food at Dollywood. Food service employees have a certain amount of creative freedom to come up with new ideas. The Country Cookers – Kettle Korn guys were absolutely beaming about the next flavor they’d come up with. And although they’re known for their cinnamon rolls, Pastry Chef Gidget Davis at Spotlight Bakery created new savory Maple Bacon Cupcakes. Bits of bacon are in the batter and they’re topped with sweet maple icing. Whoa! And at Splash Country you can get a – new this year – Sm’Oreo Gourmet Milkshake. Double whoa!
I just noticed there’s a theme here – sweets. Never fear, there are lots of non-dessert type options, too. We had Chicken Salad with lots of fresh fruit on the plate at Granny Ogle’s Ham and Beans and a wonderful “Grilled Watermelon Salad” in Market Square.
A word on managing dietary restrictions. The Front Porch Cafe is the place to go. Meals that accommodate just about any food allergy are available there. They also have a program called “Start Fresh” that prevents cross-contamination between foods.
Two new partnerships were recently launched with Bush’s and Lodge. Bush’s sponsors Granny Ogle’s Ham ‘n’ Beans and Lodge sponsors Aunt Granny’s Restaurant. Lodge is behind the complete and beautiful remodel of Aunt Granny’s, including revamping the buffet approach and serving dishes. It felt more like a meal at a friends home served family style. No huge chafing dishes or buffet pans here. Just various cast iron serving pieces, including some pieces from Lodge’s stoneware line. Very nice!
SPLASH COUNTRY
The biggest tip I can give you if you’re going to Dollywood with your family or a group of 14 or less is to get a “Retreat”. They are sweet 200 sq ft covered (think shade) enclosures with a TV screen, table and chairs, a phone for service, and a 100 sq ft sun deck with lounge chairs. It’s a good place for young children to nap, with adult supervision of course, as well as a place for adults to take a break and recharge. They are a reasonable $190 for the day. Especially good if you split the cost among a couple families.
If there’s just two of you, think about renting one of the 65 sq ft “Canopies” so you can take a break from the sun. There’s also a locked storage locker that’s a great for stashing personal items when your’re both in the water. Rent for $50 for a day.
NEW this year – Rentable Luxury Loungers for two. Located in front of River Beach, they also sport a lockable storage locker and provide shade. So new, they’re not available online yet, but you can rent one of the six Loungers when you get to Splash Country. They’re $45 for the day.
Also NEW this year are Tex-Mex Tacos at Splash Country. Multiple food options are available at this easily manageable water park.
THEME PARK
I love Dolly’s music. I like country music in general, but I was concerned about having to listen to blaring music all day. Not to worry! All music played by live groups (with mics and amps) or recorded played over speakers while I was there was tastefully subtle.
Shade and easily accessible seating are plentiful. It’s especially important on warm days.
Plan a little time for checking out the many quality shops and Dolly’s museum.
We commented among ourselves that we didn’t see any crazy meltdowns by children or adults even though the weather was pretty warm. There’s this relaxed vibe throughout the park that’s hard to explain. The employees genuine friendliness and interest in helping everyone is probably a big part of it. And the layout of the park doesn’t hurt. Lots of people were enjoying the park with us, but it didn’t feel crowded due to smart design.
DREAMMORE RESORT AND SPA
DreamMore Resort has been open for three years now. It’s beautiful and very well done. Family-friendly with a comfortable layout and a ton of amenities and special touches for guests:
If you have Theme Park tickets, skip the ride lines with a complimentary TimeSaver pass.
Items you purchase at the park will be delivered to your room so you don’t have to schlep them around with you all day.
The food available at the Resort eateries is notched up a bit from what you can enjoy at the parks. Everything I sampled, including the breakfast buffet at Song and Hearth was exceptionally good.
Many people won’t notice, but between the Song and Hearth deck and the pool is a Kitchen Garden planted with a nice variety herbs they pick fresh and use in food preparation as well as cocktails. Any gardener will tell you that Mint has a way of taking over, which it’s done here. There are plans in the works to re-do the garden using large planters. It should be even prettier and controlled at the same time.
If at all possible, enjoy the Salon and Spa. They feature FarmHouse Fresh products. The irony of being on a culinary tour and farm-related spa products wasn’t wasted on me. I wasn’t a believer, but am now. Lean in, I’m going to tell you something personal. I had my usual Summertime dry skin on the heels of my feet. After my pedicure, including a foot massage using the Honey Heel Glaze ($26) FarmHouse Fresh product, my heels showed no indication of dry skin for at least a full week! Now that I check, they still look good weeks later. That’s really unusual for me. Most products wear off after a few hours or a day, if I’m lucky. And this is not a paid endorsement.
I found Dollywood to be refreshingly, unapologeticly all about Dolly Parton. Sweet and welcoming, butterflies and positive never-give-up messages, without being sappy in the least. I think you’ll agree.
You have GOT TO GO! You won’t believe the quality of the food, the amenities, the extent they’ve gone to making the Theme Park, Water Park, and DreamMore Resort family friendly, and the overall value.
Be sure to check out Camp DW at the DreamMore Resort, if you’re staying there. They have a lot of activities for kids and adults every day. Some are free. Some are for an additional cost. Bedtime stories, arts & crafts, live music, and more.
Dollywood was awarded a whopping Four Golden Ticket Awards, the so-called Oscars of the Industry, this year alone by Amusement Today, the amusement industry’s go-to publication for the news within the industry.
Many employees are area folks that have retired from their careers. They love working at Dollywood and come back year after year.
Dollywood is a few years away from completing a $300 million expansion. It’s not your Memaws Dollywood.
Download the Dollywood Park App (App Store or Google Play) for maps and ride wait times. It definitely comes in handy!
Asheville – Looking for adventures in European, Nordic, and Southern cuisine explored with both classic (historic/vintage) and contemporary approaches. Look no further than Vivian (https://vivianavl.com/)!
We were four for Brunch last Sunday. Hubs and I were the newbies, wanting to go after hearing friends in the know rave about Vivian, newly opened in Asheville’s River Arts District (RAD).
When you’re in Paris the first time, you have to go to the Eiffel Tower, right? Develop a baseline and go from there, branching out to the smaller neighborhoods and beyond the city. That’s what I do when it comes to food. New ice cream place? I always order Vanilla first. If they get that right, I explore other flavors. Cocktails? Try a basic first, then explore the more creative.
That’s why I ordered a Mimosa ($6). It was right on, and not only did the champagne tickle my taste buds, the flute tickled my love of serveware design. At some point I’m going to ask co-owners Josiah and Shannon McGaughey if these were purchased as is, or if they painted them.
Here’s where it gets really interesting. Leah ordered Nordic Deviled Eggs ($8). Why is that interesting? Because it’s the first time I’ve seen “Nordic” on an Asheville menu. There might be others out there, but I haven’t seen them.
I’ve been following the New Nordic Food movement since it’s early days. It was initiated in 2004 by Danish chefs René Redzepi and Claus Meyer soon after they opened noma (combo of two Danish words “nordisk” (Nordic) and “mad” (food)), the #1 ranked restaurant in the world multiple years. Read this detailed article in Eater about the closing of the original noma and their re-opening in February, 2018. Side note – Asheville Chef Katie Button did a stage (unpaid internship) at noma for 3 weeks in 2012.
The movement has been growing steadily since its inception: a New Nordic Food Manifesto was conceived in 2004, the Nordic Council of Ministers (food ministers from Denmark, Finland, Iceland, Norway, Sweden and dependent territories) got on board in 2005, the Nordic Food Lab was founded in 2008, and the annual MAD Symposium was founded in 2011 by Chef René Redzepi. Shameless self promotion – I was invited to the first MAD Symposium, but wasn’t able to go. Talk about disappointed!
Back to the Nordic Deviled Eggs. They were stuffed with a mixture of smoked mackerel, potatoes, cornichon, and topped with caviar. Different for WNC.
Leah rounded out her Brunch with Lobster Salad ($15). First let’s talk about the thick slice of toasted Sally Lunn Bread under the lobster salad. There are a few versions of this bread’s history, but the one I’m going with is that this sweet, brioche-like bread was invented by 18th-century baker Sally Lunn in England, then brought over to the Southern colonies.
This dish is one example of Chef’s “clean, with limited elements to a plate, but with each one promising big, robust flavors” approach to food. Creme Fraiche, radishes, & spring peas and their tendrils top the Sally Lunn Bread. None of us had seen greens presented this way, so there was tendril tasting and discussion going on.
Tim and Leah had been to Vivian for Brunch previously. Telling us about that meal, Tim said the salmon on the Salmon Tournedos dish was some of the best he’d had. This time he opted for the Irish Country Salmon Toast ($12). Soft scrambled eggs, capers and cured salmon were topped with caper cream, and plated with toasted Soda Bread.
We didn’t ask about the green garnish, but it did strike me as a succulent. My taste yielded a moist, neutral flavor. Not something I’d pursue.
I’m going to admit to owning six different egg coddlers that haven’t seen much use. When pressed, I refer to them as displayed “works of art”. Know that I’m on a new mission to use the coddlers more often after having Vivian’s Coddled Egg ($9) made with cream, sherry, sautéed mushrooms, Gruyere cheese, and served with toast.
Mild and delicious, early bites taken with my spoon required dipping through the Gruyere on top and then releasing it from from cheesy strands unwilling to let go. Mmm. Mmm. Dipping the toast worked, too. Last, but not least, Corned Beef Hash ($13) for the Hubs. It’s one of his favorites and this version did not disappoint! The potato, onion, carrot, cabbage, and corned beef were topped with two fried eggs and a mustard creme sauce. He pointed out the large cubes of corned beef pretty quickly, saying they were delicious. He suggested I take a taste, and boy am I glad I did. That was some excellent corned beef.
Oddly enough, I didn’t taste either Leah’s or Tim’s dishes (we normally taste all around) so can’t give an opinion, but there were no complaints. In fact, we were all decidedly happy with our meals. I’m predicting it won’t be long before I’m back at Vivian for another meal.
Epicurean Notes:
Service was excellent.
Make a reservation. Vivian is “trending”.
Seats at the bar cannot be reserved. They are first come, first served.
Want to be on the cutting edge, knowing about food trends before your friends? Learn about the rise of Nordic Cuisine in the US and beyond in these 2018 OpenTable and the Opinionator articles.
New Nordic Food is about eating seasonally, local, foraging, pickling, and fermenting, so in a way, Asheville is totally on board. Think Alan Muskat and No Taste Like Home, Chef Steve Goff (fermenting king) Aux Bar and BrineHaus Meat & Provisions Food Truck, and many more.
Sound dampening panels have been added to the ceiling, but it’s still very loud when busy. Hopefully, they’ll figure out how to dampen it down a little more.
