Asheville – This past Fall, I was lucky enough to attend a new-menu tasting at The Blackbird ( http://theblackbirdrestaurant.com/ ) These particular items may or may not be on the menu now, but they’ll give you an idea of what’s coming out of their kitchen.
I’d started this article just before the news came out that Blackbird owners Jesson and Cristina Gill had taken over ownership of a second Asheville restaurant, Early Girl Eatery. That confirmed that writing this now was fated because after spending an evening over an intimate dining experience that included Jesson and Cristina, not only did I come away with a new appreciation for Blackbird’s food, I also found myself liking the Gills very much.
I’m thrilled they’ve experienced enough success at Blackbird that they’re able to expand their holdings.
The Tasting
Executive Chef Michael Reppert and Bar Manager Rama Malinak walked our small group through multiple courses, some paired with wine expertly chosen by Rama.
We began with a light, delicious cocktail. It’s a variation of the classic “Blue Moon”. It’s made with lemon juice, Fords Gin, Cointreau (triple sec), and Crème de violette. I didn’t catch an official name, but they should know what you’re talking about if you mention their Blue Moon variation.
Many of the ingredients used by Blackbird are sourced from local farms. The Peach Tomatoes in this delicious Caprese dish are sourced from Common Ground Farm. House-made Mozzarella tops the tomato slices.
Peach Tomatoes? You read that right. It’s hard to tell from the photo below, but these small tomatoes actually have soft, fuzzy skin, just like a peach! The left-on skin didn’t detract from the Caprese at all. Normally, these will be used in salads because they’re too small for regular sized Caprese dishes.
I love learning about new/different produce, don’t you?
A warm Peach and Brie Salad followed. The SC-sourced peaches are also considered local. Under the peach slices was a 1/4 wheel of Goat Lady Dairy‘s Snow Camp Cheese (similar to Brie). Goat Lady Dairy is in Climax. According to Chef, the cheese is that good – wink. The chopped greens are from Serious Dog Farm (Asheville).
The peaches and cheese work well together as a tasty, refreshing, and somewhat filling dish.
House-made Brioche Toast topped with locally foraged mushrooms, dried cranberries, Romano, and Apple Cider Molasses followed. Interestingly, the molasses had been reduced 10 to 20 times, so it’s Apple Cider that’s been thickened and has a concentrated flavor.
Rama paired this mushroom dish with an Altos de Rioja Tempranillo. “It’s light enough that it won’t step on the mushrooms, but robust enough in its minerality to compliment earthy flavors.” It was perfect!
Time for a palate cleanser – Raspberry Sorbet made in-house by their Pastry Chef.
Corn and Goat Cheese Pie, a hearty vegetarian dish (also Gluten Free) inspired by the image of a cake layered with toppings. Normally there’d be a crust under the Corn Pie, but for the tasting, Chef used a crumble as a base.
Topped with a reduced warm tomato and mushroom salsa mixed with goat cheese, it was delicious!
As we were talking about various dietary restrictions and requests that come in to restaurant kitchens, Chef recalled an order for a Cheese Board with no cheese or hummus. They ended up with a lot of pickled vegetables. Cheese Board becomes Pickle Board.
Moving on, we come to a South Carolina low country specialty, Seafood Pilau. Chef’s take was absolutely fantastic. Not familiar? It’s a tomato-based sauce with clams, muscles, shrimp, crawfish, and Andouille sausage on top of a bed of rice. “South Carolina’s answer to a Paella” ~ Chef Michael
Rama chose the Chateau Montelena 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon to accompany the Seafood Pilau.
Interesting note: the movie Bottle Shock was about Chateau Montelena’s 1973 Chardonnay secretly entered and winner of the blind tasting at the first Judgement of Paris competition. At that time, the French wouldn’t even consider anything less than a French wine as worthy. See the movie if you haven’t had the chance. It’s a cute, feel good story.
Two more courses were served. A Sous Vide Beef Tenderloin and their famous Coconut Layer Cake. Unfortunately, I didn’t capture good photos, so you’ll have to use your imagination.
The Beef was fall-apart tender, served with house-made steak sauce, and absolutely delicious. It was served with whipped potatoes and succotash. Comfort food to be sure.
The Coconut Cake? It’s famous for a reason. I’m talkin’ coconut custard between four layers of yellow cake – all from scratch. Don’t forget to order it for dessert and see for yourself what all the fuss is about.
Bar Manager, Rama Malinak focuses on small batch producers when stocking Blackbird’s cellars. He may or may not have mentioned a private stash, which I will attempt to investigate further at some point. 🙂
I wasn’t planning on documenting the paired wines, but photographed this Chablis label toward the beginning of the evening as a note to myself. I don’t want to name the paired dish for fear of getting it wrong. It was unexpectedly tasty.
The Blackbird is at the corner of Biltmore Ave and Aston St., across Aston from Double Deckers coffee and dessert bus.
When you go, if you can’t find street parking, park in the City Garage located under the Aloft Hotel (and Blackbird). Garage entrances can be found on both Biltmore and S. Lexington Avenues. The first hour is free. After that, it’s $1.25 per hour.
The Blackbird ( http://theblackbirdrestaurant.com/ )
47 Biltmore Ave
Asheville, NC 28801
(828) 254-2502
