Flush with cash and ideology, Chow Chow was birthed in 2019 with the help of a $75k cash infusion from Asheville’s Convention and Visitors Bureau. The intent was noble. With a focus on exploring historic Southern Foodways, get everyone to “the table” where through the sharing of sustenance, race and class divisions could be understood and overcome in a meaningful way.
From the outside, and having produced many events myself, it looked like a spending spree right from the start. Slick website, videos, graphic design, large format printing, equipment rental, marketing & advertising, speakers, presenters, etc. Rather than test the waters with a more toned down inaugural event, it looked like the intent was to deliver a full-blown event that had been going on for years and was too big to fail.
Of course it got too political almost immediately. Although I’m in awe of what the man does and has accomplished, José Andrés appeared on the main stage wearing a shirt that read, “I am an immigrant”. Apparently he came to town to make a statement, as well as to support his protégé, Katie Button, Chef and Owner of Asheville restaurants, Cúrate and La Bodega, and one of the founders and forces behind Chow Chow.
By 2021 Chow Chow had morphed into clench-fisted in-your-face accusations of racism and classism, insulting and alienating a huge swath of the local population. Chow Chow Communications manager and Owner & Principle, Jefferson Ellison of Jawbreaking Creative, proudly released a marketing video in which he emphasized, “In a city like Asheville, that is overwhelmingly white, overwhelmingly privileged, overwhelmingly wealthy…” Chow Chow Board President at the time, Jessica Reiser, states in the video that Chow Chow is also about “Racial Justice, Food Justice, and Climate Change.”
Fast forward to 2023. Melissa Scheiderer was named new Executive Director. Under her watch, Chow Chow’s strongly worded “Code of Conduct” (threat) was spelled out on their website. It read in part, “By attending any Chow Chow Food + Culture Festival you agree to abide by this Code of Conduct and understand that any failure to do so will result in your immediate removal from the event and that law enforcement may be involved, if appropriate.” It had been revised from the original “You will be forcibly removed by our staff”.
Even with multiple event name changes, restructures, various Directors, and CVB investments totaling over $210,000 over the event’s four year run, by 2024 Chow Chow and its non-profit collapsed under a $27,218 deficit and non-payment to many vendors.
A message to unpaid vendors read, “Unfortunately, there is no plan to resolve Chow Chow’s debts or honorariums owed. There are no longer any resources, staffing, or funds to continue without incurring more debt. Donation contribution letters were issued to the beverage & culinary vendors who remained unpaid in hopes that at least the contribution could be converted to a write off,” according to the board, comprising local, volunteer community leaders and food and beverage professionals. – Asheville Citizen Times
The outcome could have been so different, in my opinion, if organizers had stuck to honoring the historic people and food of the South, sharing stories, historic ingredients, cooking methods, even seminars with experts presenting different points of view that were open for discussion afterwards.
The most cogent and understated statement I’ve read to date is, “It [Chow Chow] lost some of its focus around the food and became more about other things.” – Robin Stevens, co-owner and sales and marketing leader at Noble Cider
