Not a stretch - Tall John's, Asheville's next Best Restaurant?

To be sure, I’ll have to go to Tall John’s a few more times to make the proclaimation – “Asheville’s next Best Restaurant” permanent. If last night’s preview is any indication, there’s no question about it!

Food hasn’t surprised me in quite a while, but three of the four dishes we had did just that. I was surprised by unexpected flavors and textures. There was also a little surprise involved with how dishes were presented – serving dish & utensils, portioned for two. It’ll be interesting to see if they continue with this approach. Our server confirmed that’s the plan. It was fine for us, and actually added to the experience, but what if you have a table of four and they all order different things?

WHO

Tall John’s is helmed by Executive Chef/Owner Trevor Payne and General Manager Jasper Adams.

Chef Payne returns to Asheville, where he has family roots, following an extensive culinary career in Portland, Oregon’s top kitchens (Clyde Common, Le Pigeon, Little Bird Bistro, Olympia Provisions).

Those of you familiar with Asheville’s culinary scene will know Jasper Adams from Table, The Imperial Life, Cucina 24, and Rhubarb. He’s a life-long Ashevillian.

WHAT

With a hip, cozy, neighborhood-tavern-like ambiance, Payne has positioned Tall John’s as “a place for all occasions for everyone.” It’s set to be a destination for everyday meals and special occasions alike, where “the quality of the food, beverage, and service is just as important as creating an approachable atmosphere where people feel comfortable.”

Seating capacity is 50 in the dining area and another 20 to 25 on the side patio. They’re planning a Spring opening for the patio.

The space has undergone extensive interior remodeling. It’s been modernized, while maintaining the building’s historic character: the original 1900s-era floors have been refurbished rather than covered over, and a new open kitchen & spacious bar have been added.

That Kitchen Bar definitely brings you up close and personal to the action. It struck me as a narrow space to work in, especially when there’s a crowd, but there was a smooth flow as Chef Payne directed. Remember this was a soft opening, so first run with patrons. I also wondered if it would get hot with commercial oven, cooktop, and grill about ten feet from our seats. That hood did its job. No unusual heat on our side of the bar.

Payne, son of Asheville artist John Payne, has called upon some of his close relationships with artists and craftspeople to bring original touches to the space. These include custom metal work from Tina and Kayla Councell of Iron Maiden Studios and original artwork from local artist Kevin Hogan (Payne’s father-in-law).

What’s behind the name “Tall John’s”? Treavor Payne’s father’s name is John, and he’s tall. They called him Tall John. As Jasper Adams tells it, the name gradually morphed into a feeling of casual comfort and just a generally good feeling.

The menu will offer “European-American classics like roasted chicken, cold oysters, radishes and cultured butter, caesar salad, a great steak [and possibly a great burger]. The newly-built spacious bar will serve classics like freezer-cold martinis, an intentional selection of enduring wines from small producers, time-honored draft and packaged beers, and crafted non-alcoholic drinks. There are a variety of seating options to choose from, including outdoor patio seating, a full-service bar, a counter at the open kitchen, and a lively dining room.”

See the Sample Menu served during their friends, family, and media event in the Gallery befow. You’ll see dishes are titled, but not described. If you want to know what’s in the dish before ordering, ask your server.

For instance, the menu said, “Fall Chicories“. It was a Chicory Salad with pear, grapes, and a creamy pistachio dressing, topped with cheese. That dressing, though. Seriously delicious! It’s pictured in the gallery below.

WHEN

Tall John’s plans to open for dinner service on October 19th from 4-10pm for walk-ins only. Dinner service will be Wednesday through Sunday, with additional offerings, including weekend brunch, daytime coffee, and what the team describes as a “badly needed in Montford” retail bottle shop on the ground floor, soon to follow.

WHERE

Located at 152 Montford Avenue, the historic building dates back to 1906. It’s tucked in among the neighborhood’s historic residences and old-growth trees. Throughout its history, the building has been home to a Piggly Wiggly and a Pentecostal church before being restored and converted into a restaurant space last occupied by Italian restaurant, Chiesa.

WHY YOU SHOULD GO

What impressed me most was the creative (read delicious) approach Payne takes to his dishes. Even the most mundane – a side of Baby Turnips. Turnips, you say? Try them before you dismiss the idea. No idea how they make those turnips do what they do. Take a bite, after swiping in the (no nut) pistou, and you get a spash of full, but mildly flavored liquid in your mouth followed by a firm-tender chew.

And those Oysters! Oh. My. Gosh! Definitely put a spoonful of that magic Mignonette sauce – traditionally made with minced shallots, cracked black peppercorn, and vinegar (either red or white) on top – followed by a light lemon squeeze.

Our “Tall” dish, “Roasted Half Chicken” was tender, juicy, and tasty. It made a difference following our server’s suggestion to add squeeze lemon over top.

I wondered if this was a case of a chef coming from the other side of the country, bringing what’s standard there as new here. But Asheville chefs have come from all over. He’s not the first. I’ve also spent time in Portland without running across cooking like this. Conclusion? It’s all Chef Trevor Payne.